TJ LED Conversion

Page 2

 

 

 

Let’s get started:

 

First you will have to make the harnesses for your 4” LED’s. Taking the 3 pin connectors, strip back ¼” of insulation from about 2” from the pins on the red wire (Turn/Stop). Lay the resistor (Radio Shack # 271-120, 8ohm-20watt) down next to the wires and strip a ¼” off the white wire (Ground) making sure the wires will lay flat. These resistors are needed for TJ’s ONLY. For CJ/YJ leave this resistor out and replace your existing flasher with a heavy duty flasher. Cut off a piece of 3/16” shrink about ½” long and slide it up the red wire. Wrap one end of the resistor around the stripped red wire and one end around the stripped white wire. Solder in place and shrink.

 

 

After soldering and shrinking place some black RTV/silicone on the ends of the resistor to cover the leads of the resistor that were not covered by shrinking. Set this aside and let the silicone dry. It is very important there is no wire/metal showing as this could short and cause problems later down the road.

 

 

 

 

While those are drying it is a good time to decide where to mount your new reverse lights. I bought some cheap driving lights at Pep Boys, they are 35watt. For my application 35watt will work directly off the existing wiring harness. Checking the owners manual, the fuse that runs these lights is 10amps. This fuse is also connected to the AC compressor, rear window defroster and the ABS. If you have either rear window defroster or ABS I would suggest that you run a separate power wire through a relay controlled by your original harness. The driving lights are 35watts each if you divide this by 12volts you get 2.92amps times two equals 5.83amps. This is why I say, with either rear window defroster or ABS run a separate power source.
 

These lights are low enough that the tail gate will go over the top of them without a problem. In addition, there are some holes already in my rear bumper that will allow the wires to pass through. For these reason I decided to mount the lights as shown. I drilled to mounting holes for each light and bolted the lights to the bumper using the bolts included with the lights and making sure to loc-tite the nuts. The wires will go through the holes in the bumper just covering the connectors on the lights, to protect them. The wires for the lights will go down the inside of the bumper and come up and connect to the wiring harness. Make sure that you use silicone grease on ALL connectors. This will help insure the lack of corrosion in these connections. We will get back to this subject on the final fit up of the wiring.


Page 3